
Many people assume that all Californians surf. Although we are a nature-loving crowd, this statement is just not true. Surfing is for the strong-willed, awe-inspired, humble human beings. It is more than shaggy sun-bleached hair, shakas and eternal glory.
Surfing is found in an almost unattainable realm. It is finding the perfect balance of wind, air, and self. It is a harnessing of the surge of energy created by the moon; an energy that has travelled thousands of miles just to erupt under your board.
When you catch that wave of energy, you feel invincible. It is when you don’t catch it and are trapped beneath the water you feel the true power of the ocean. It’s the latter experience which makes you feel humbled and so small in this great chain of life. The ocean is a living, breathing, untamable thing, and it is always a spiritual experience when encountering it.